Why Aren’t My Dahlias Blooming Yet?

It’s time for my Annual Summer Dahlia Public Service Announcement! 
If you've been staring at your Dahlia patch lately, wondering why you don’t see any blooms yet…

Relax. Take a deep breath.

Nothing has gone wrong.

Every single summer, right around this time, my inbox fills up with some version of the same panicked message: "My dahlias are healthy, but there's not a bloom in sight. What am I doing wrong?"

Friend, you're not doing anything wrong. You're just impatient. (No judgment here; I am too.Ha!)

Dahlias Are Fall Blooming Flowers

When you’re buying and planting tubers in the spring, it’s easy to forget something important:  Dahlias are fall-blooming flowers. You wishing they would bloom earlier does not change this fact (I know. It’s hard to hear that. I keep wishing they would bloom earlier every year!).

Expecting them to bloom in early summer is like expecting a Tulip to bloom in the fall (it CAN theoretically be done, but requires a lot of light and temperature manipulation, which is just as complicated as it sounds).

Most Dahlias take somewhere between 12 and 16 weeks from planting to their first bloom. So if you tucked your tubers into the ground in mid-May, as a lot of us in Zone 5B did, you're looking at your first blooms somewhere between mid-August and mid-September. 

Not July. Maybe not even early August… although there are sometimes outliers that show up to the Dahlia party earlier!

Here's how the season tends to unfold:

• Late July: Maybe a few early, overachiever blooms

• August: Things start picking up steam as the month goes on

• September: Peak dahlia season, my favorite month of the entire year!

• October: They keep blooming their fool heads off until they get hit by a killing frost (usually around Oct 15, but sometimes as late as November!)

Dahlia field on Oct 7

Some nerdy science stuff…

This is the part I find fascinating, so bear with me for a second.

Dahlias are what's called "facultative short-day plants." That's just a fancy way of saying they prefer shorter days, and they hit their blooming stride when daylight length drops to somewhere around 12 to 13 hours.

So during the long days of summer, the Dahlia is putting its energy into growing. You’ll see a lot of leaf growth during the summer, and this is the time to make sure your plants are getting all the food and water they need to grow. 

Once the days start shortening in late summer and early fall, something shifts. The plant gets the signal that the growing season is winding down, and it shifts into reproduction mode… which means it’s time to start sending up flowers, which will be pollinated by bees, go to seed, and start the circle of life all over again. 

What Daylight Looks Like on Our Farm

If you're gardening near Grand Rapids, Michigan, sitting up around the 43rd parallel like I am, here's roughly how our daylight hours shift as summer turns to fall:

• End of July: About 14.5 hours of daylight

• End of August: Around 13 hours

• End of September: Around 12 hours

• End of October: Around 10 hours

Once we drop into that 12–13 hour range, that's when the Dahlias really take off.

If you're gardening somewhere else, your exact daylight numbers will look a little different depending on your latitude, but the pattern holds everywhere: shorter days trigger the bloom.

Other factors affecting bloom time…

Daylight length is the main driver, but a few other factors matter too.

Temperature matters. Dahlias like warm days and cool nights. If your area has been stuck in a stretch of brutal heat (we feel you), your Dahlias are probably sulking a little. They tend to perk up once temperatures ease off. If you live in a hot southern climate, your Dahlias might not bloom until mid-fall (October or November). This is one case where Northern growers might see blooms BEFORE their Southern growing friends (because it’s cooler in the north and the Dahlias stop sulking)!

Food and water matter, too. Dahlias are hungry, thirsty plants. If you've been slacking on feeding and watering (it happens!), now is a great time to get back on a regular schedule. Your plants will appreciate it. We use nitrogen-based fertilizer during the growth stage, then switch to a phosphorus-based fertilizer when we see the plants setting buds.

Perspective From Our Own Field

If it helps to know you're not alone in this: we currently have about 2,000+ dahlia plants on our farm, and as of today, July 29, 2026, I’ve harvested exactly three blooms.

Three. Out of two thousand plants.

We've been fighting drought and seriously oppressive heat this summer, so our Dahlias are not happy campers right now. 

This gorgeous Dahlia photo? It was taken in early October, when the plants were thriving during the warm days and crisp, cool nights.

So if your Dahlia patch looks like a sea of green right now, you're in good company… and nothing has gone wrong.

Dahlia Field on Oct 10

The Bottom Line

Dahlias bloom most prolifically as the days shorten toward the fall equinox. That's simply how they are designed.

Be patient. Keep watering, keep feeding, keep weeding.
I promise you’ll be rewarded in the fall! 

Ready for more?

🌸The Dahlia Quick-Start Handbook🌸

Grow stunning blooms your first season… without the overwhelm.

A warm, practical, and personable guide that walks you through your entire first dahlia season, from planting day in the spring to digging tubers in the fall.

Written like I'm sitting at your kitchen table with you, not lecturing you from a podium.

How to Revive Floppy Flowers

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How to Revive Floppy Flowers

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You've had it happen before.

The bloom looked perfect on the plant but within minutes of cutting, the whole stem is looking a little droopy. In fact, it looks downright sad!

What is going on?!?

Usually it's one of 3 things:

1. The flower was cut at the wrong time of the day.

Many flowers will immediately wilt if cut during the heat of the day.

Here’s why. Flowers are the most hydrated and firm in the morning, when the stems are filled with water.

As the day progresses and the heat rises , the water flows down the stems into the base of the plants and the flowers begin to dehydrate, which means the stems can get floppy and wilty.

Flowers that are harvested in the heat of the day are wilty, floppy and expire faster.

This is why we ONLY harvest flowers in the cool of the day, either early in the morning or late in the evening. On our farm, we start cutting as soon as it's light enough (around 6:00 am) and stop as soon as the sun is up over the tree line and it starts to heat up (about 10:00 am).

If the day is cool or cloudy, we can get away with cutting later in the day... but if the sun is out, forget about cutting in the middle of the day.

Evening is another good option for cutting. Start when the sun is far on the horizon and the day has cooled.

2. The plant was harvested at the wrong stage.

Every single flower has it’s own “Ideal Stage of Harvest”, which refers to how open or mature the bloom should be for optimal vase life.

Some flowers need to mature a bit more before being cut or they will flop. Really, the best way to figure this out is simply experimenting. 

If the stem feels floppy on the plant before you even cut it, that is likely a clue that the stem needs to mature a few more days. Wait until the stem feels more rigid.

For example, Zinnias are easy to test. Simply grasp the stem about 9 inches below the bloom and give it a shake. If the stem flops or bends, it's not mature enough. If the stem is stiff, it's ready. 

3. The plant DOESN’T hydrate easily.

Some plants simply do not respond well to being cut and have a hard time "rehydrating" and getting water flowing in the stems.

If you can manage to get these stems “drinking” water again, they will make a great cut flower and last for days. If not, they are basically worthless. 

A Simple Trick for Reviving Wilted Stems

In my reading and research about post-harvest care for flowers, I came across something called the "Boiling Water Method" for reviving wilted stems.

I was truly skeptical because the idea of placing stems in boiling water seems insane. In my experiments, I was attempting the opposite - recutting the stems and placing them into cold water. It didn't work.

I decided to give the "Boiling Water Method" a shot on some stems that I was about to throw out. I had cut the stems early in the morning, but they still wilted immediately... and a day later, even after being stored in my floral cooler overnight,  they still looked terrible.

Time to try the "Boiling Water Method". This is what I did:

1. Boiled water on the stove and poured it into a jar.

2. Re-cut the stems at an angle with clean, sharp flower clippers.

3. Immediately plunged the stem end into the boiling water, angling the blooms out the jar to avoid "steaming" the blooms.

4. Set a timer for 1 hour and walked away (I wanted to watch, but I had work to do!)

*NOTE: This was my first attempt. I learned that it's probably best to fill the jar with about 1 inch of water, so only a small part of the stem is "cooked". That part of the stem can be cut off later.

Also, one hour is probably unnecessary - I was headed out to work and wasn't able to check back earlier.

If you are concerned about "cooking" the stems, try dipping for 10 seconds for soft stemmed flowers and up to a few minutes for "woody" stemmed flowers like hydrangeas. After "searing" in the boiling water, place the stems in cool water.

When I returned, the water was cool and this is what the stems looked like:

AMAZING. I was in shock. 2 minutes of work and these flowers were back in business!

I removed the stems from the jar and added them to an arrangement in my dining room. 6 days later, the stems were still looking GREAT.

Now obviously, if your blooms are 5-7 days old and they start wilting, you need to simply accept that they are dying a natural death. Flowers don't last forever.

However, if your blooms are freshly cut and wilting, then you can certainly give the "Boiling Water Method" a try. What do you have to lose? It's better than your other option - throwing them out.

Flowers/Foliage That Might Need a Little Help

Here are a few flower/foliage varieties that respond well to this hydration method:

• Artemisia

• Basil

• Chinese Forget-Me-Not

• Dahlias

• Dusty Miller

• Hollyhock

• Honeywort

• Hydrangea

• Lilac

• Mint

• Scented Geranium

• Shiso/Perilla

Obviously, flowers are not "one size fits all", so this method will not work on all flower varieties.

I highly encourage you to do your own experiments. Have fun with it and set up your own control group and experimental groups.

For example, label several jars - one is the control (you do nothing), one is a stem seared for 10 seconds, one is a stem seared for 2 minutes, 10 minutes, etc.  Be sure to analyze and compare your results. This is the best way to learn!

If you consistently have an issue with a flower wilting, first you should make sure you are harvesting at the correct time of day and the correct stage of harvest. 

If this does not help (or if you simply cannot cut that early in the day), the "Boiling Water Method" is a good option to try out.

I hope this information is helpful. Give it a try next time you encounter a floppy, sad looking stem... and let me know how it worked!

Trust the Process: Why Pinching Your Dahlias Means MORE Abundant Blooms

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The first time I showed someone how we "pinch" our Dahlia plants, they nearly swooned and fell over (true story!).

Once they recovered, they sputtered: "Why did you cut off the bud? You just ruined the plant!"

I get it. It seems SO counterintuitive to cut something back to make it grow more.

But trust me. This isn't my first rodeo… and I do this for a living. I've seen firsthand the power of pinching, and I can't wait to share it with you.

First, the WHY. It’s important to know the reasoning behind pinching.
Once you know the why, I’ll show you the HOW.

Why Pinching Works

Every plant has a lifecycle: grow, bloom, get pollinated, make seeds, drop seeds, die.

If you leave your Dahlias alone and let them do their thing, they'll race right through that lifecycle and stop blooming.

Want them to bloom longer and more abundantly? Of course you do! 

So here’s what you’re going to do: You’re going to interrupt that cycle by:
1. Pinching the plants early in the season
2. And harvesting or deadheading the blooms throughout the season.

Dahlias tend to naturally grow in the shape of a Christmas tree. One central stem, one big bloom at the top.

That's... fine. But I'm guessing you want ARMLOADS of blooms from your Dahlias, not just a handful of blooms. (Same, friend. Same.)

Pinching redirects the plant's energy. Instead of focusing all its energy on that one big flower, it branches out, giving you multiple stems and multiple blooms, instead of just one.

There's also a practical reason for pinching: sometimes Dahlias start blooming on stems that are way too short and chunky for bouquets. For cut flower use, we need slim stems that are 18–24" long. An 8” stem will never work in a bouquet, so we pinch it off to send a clear message: "Nice try. Send up something longer."

And they will. After we’ve pinched back the Dahlia field, I can practically hear those plants talking back to me: “Challenge accepted. 👊 You just wait and see what we can do!”

Dahlia that was pinched (left) vs unpinched Dahlia (right). The stem on the right is too chunky and bulky to use in a bouquet!

The Secret Multiplier: Dahlia Math

Here's where it gets really fun.

Pinching is just the beginning. Once your Dahlias start producing, it’s your job to keep harvesting the blooms because the more you cut, the more they grow.

I call it Dahlia Math, and it's my favorite kind of math.

✂️ Cut one stem → the plant sends up two or more stems to replace it
✂️ Cut those → you get even more
✂️ Keep going all season long

The flip side is also true. If you don't cut:

❌ The blooms go to seed
❌ The plant thinks its job is done
❌ Production stops (cue the sad trombone)

Pinching is what causes the plants to branch and send up tons of blooms. 

Harvesting is what keeps the blooms coming for months rather than just weeks.

Dahlia Nicholas

How to Pinch Your Dahlias (It's Easier Than You Think)

Step 1: Wait until the plant is 8–18" tall.

My personal measuring system? "Less than knee-high." I just measured my knee, and it's 18 inches. Turns out I've had a built-in measuring stick this whole time.

Step 2: Find the leaf sets.

Look for pairs of leaves growing opposite each other. Start from the bottom and count up 3–4 sets.

Step 3: Make the cut. *

Using sharp snips or pruning shears, cut off the top of the plant just above those 3–4 leaf sets. You're likely removing a few inches of growth — maybe 2–3 sets of leaves.

*Note: We do recommend sanitizing your snips between each plant with a 10% bleach solution. This helps to prevent spreading potential disease from plant to plant.

Step 4: Allow yourself to freak out and question everything.

It's okay. We all do this at first. It’s normal to feel a little sick to your stomach!  But pretty soon you'll be gleefully chopping away, because you'll know that every pinch means more flowers.

Step 5: Wait two weeks and watch.

Where you made one cut, two (or more) stems will emerge. That's the plant branching out and getting ready to grow multiple blooms, instead of one. 

Bushier plant = more stems = more blooms = happier YOU!

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Still Skeptical? Try This Experiment

Don’t believe me? No worries.

Seeing is believing, so I want you to experiment. Pinch one plant. Leave another unpinched. Then compare them in late summer.

I promise the pinched plant will produce more blooms.

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The Bottom Line

So many beginners are afraid they'll ruin their Dahlias by pinching them. But the reality is the opposite is true. NOT pinching is what limits your blooms. 

Pinching makes plants more vigorous, more productive, and sturdier.

Your Dahlias can’t wait to show you what they can do! 

Now, go grab your snips and pinch away. 🌸

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Need more help with your Dahlias?

The Dahlia Quick-start Handbook is your go-to source for all things Dahlias!
It’s full of helpful instructions, tutorials, video guides, and more.

Top Tips for Longer Lasting Flowers

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Top Tips for Longer Lasting Flowers

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When people visit our farm, they often ask “How do I make these flowers last the longest?”

I can’t wait to share some great tips with you, but first… let’s talk about expectations.

With proper care and cutting techniques, flowers can be be expected to last anywhere from 3-21 days in a vase. Yup, I know that’s a HUGE range!

In the flower farming world, we use the term “vase life” to describe how long a flower should last. Vase life differs for EVERY. SINGLE. TYPE. OF. FLOWER (and even amongst one type of flower, different varieties might last longer than others).

For example, a Dahlia typically has a vase life of 3-5 days, while I’ve had Snapdragons, Feverfew and Lisianthus that still look acceptable after 21 days.

5-7 days is considered a “good vase life”, so if you notice flowers beginning to decline after 5 days, this is totally normal.

Now that we have realistic expectations, here are some helpful techniques to tip the odds in your favor and make those blooms last as long as possible!

1. Cut Early or Late in the Day

I know it sounds dreamy to wander around in a field of flowers on a bright sunny summer afternoon, cutting a bouquet... but don't.

JUST DON'T. A hot sunny afternoon is pretty much the worst time to cut flowers, so avoid it as much as possible! Flowers cut in the heat of the day expire MUCH FASTER than those cut in the cool parts of the day.

Dawn and dusk are the best times to cut, preferably before the sun is up or after it has set.

If you are having problems with a certain flower wilting immediately and never recovering, or flowers that don't last long, I would suspect you are not cutting at the correct time of day.

Certain flowers/foliage need to be cut earlier than others. For example, if I try to cut Lemon Basil after the sun has risen over the horizon, it will immediately wilt. I know I need to get out there early and cut before sunrise. You will need to do some trial and error to figure out what works!

Moral of the Story: Get your buns out of bed before the sun is up. ;)  It's truly the VERY best way to start your day and the flowers will thank you with days of beautiful blooms!

2. Keep It Clean

Cleanliness is VITAL. Bacteria is often what causes cut flowers to wilt and wither prematurely.

Your clippers/scissors/shears should be clean and sharp. Wash or wipe down your clippers with rubbing alcohol periodically, ideally before every cutting session.

Your buckets and vases also need to be sparkling clean. No nasty gunk or dust or dirt.

If you wouldn't drink out of it, then it's not clean enough! This is not a joke.

Yup, I’m going to say it again. Your bucket MUST be clean enough to drink out of. Trust me. It makes a big difference (and yes, we spend a TON of time scrubbing buckets in hot soapy water and yes, I would drink out of them. Ha!).

If you put those freshly cut stems into dirty water in a dirty bucket, you’ve pretty much guaranteed the stems are going to get clogged up with gunk and expire way faster.

KEEP YOUR BUCKETS AND CLIPPERS IMMACULATE. Got it? ;)

3. Cut at the Correct Stage

“Stage of cutting” refers to how open the flower should be at harvest time.
Should it be fully open? Barely open? Halfway open?
Lots of people are cutting flowers way too late (too open) and naturally, not getting the longest vase life.

Unfortunately, there is no “one-size-fits-all” rule for the ideal stage of cutting. It varies with EVERY. SINGLE. TYPE of flower. Again, there is going to be some trial and error here!

With some flowers, such as Poppies, Sunflowers and Cosmos, you want to cut them right when they are beginning to open/bloom, in order to have the longest vase life. Cut these flowers earlier than you think and enjoy watching the flowers open up in the vase!

On the opposite spectrum, Dahlias and Zinnias don’t open much after being cut, so they must be allowed to bloom fully on the plant before being cut.

Most flowers are somewhere in between. Foxglove, Snapdragons and Delphinium, for example, are best harvested when the bottom 2-3 blooms on the stem have opened up. 

For some flowers, especially Zinnias and Black-Eyed Susans, it's helpful to perform "The Wiggle Test". Grasp the stem about 8" below the flower and wiggle it. If the flower flops around, it's not ready to be cut. If the stem remains firm, cut away!

4. Make Deep Cuts and Remove Foliage

When you are out in the field, be sure to make "deep cuts" - that is, cut your stems at least 12"-18”.

Elbow to fingertip length is perfect. You can always cut them shorter later!

Cutting deeply will actually signal the plant to produce even MORE long stems, so don't be shy about cutting deeper than you think. As long as you leave 2-3 sets of leaves near the base of the plant, you should be good!

Immediately after cutting, gently strip or cut off all the foliage from the bottom 2/3 of the stem. Leaves/foliage will muck up the water quickly, so get rid of any leaves that will touch water.

I repeat - NEVER, EVER allow leaves/foliage in the water!

5. Hydrate Properly

After cutting and stripping off the foliage, immediately place the stems in cool, CLEAN water in a CLEAN bucket or vase.

It's best to cut stems at an angle, so they don't sit flush with the bottom of the bucket. An angled cut also creates a larger surface area for the stem to draw up water.

If possible, it's best to allow the flowers to rest in a cool place out of the sun for a few hours (or overnight) before arranging. Some flowers need a few hours to "re-hydrate" and perk up. They just went through a lot of stress, so give them some time to literally “chill out”.

(If you find the water in your bucket is dirty after harvesting your flowers, I recommend transferring the flowers to a new clean bucket with clean water when it’s time for them to rest and rehydrate.)

Give those flowers plenty of time to rest before trying to arrange them into bouquets. Here’s a sample cutting schedule if I need some arrangements for a Friday evening: 

Thursday - cut in the evening

Thursday overnight - allow flowers to rest and rehydrate in CLEAN water in a cool location

Friday morning - arrange flowers and store in a cool location until event time

Friday evening - display flowers

6. Avoid Sun and Heat

After you’ve arranged your flowers and want to display them, DO NOT set your bouquet in direct sun. While sun is necessary for flowers to grow, once they are cut, they need to be kept AWAY from the sun. A windowsill might not be the best location! 

Heat also causes flowers to expire more quickly, so be aware that a bouquet picked and displayed in the heat of the summer will not last as long as a spring or fall bouquet... unless you keep your house very cold with air conditioning!

7. Keep Flowers Away from Fruit

Ripening fruit, like bananas, apples, avocados, peaches and pears, produce ethylene gas, which causes flowers to expire and wilt prematurely. If you have fresh fruit on your kitchen counters, the kitchen is not a great place to display your flowers. 

Some flowers, like Sweet Peas and Dahlias, are particularly sensitive and can expire nearly overnight if subjected to ethylene gas.

8. Change Water Daily and Re-cut Stems

Fresh, clean water and a sparkling clean vase will significantly extend the life of your bouquet. Dirty water breeds bacteria and clogs the stem end of the flower, reducing water intake.

Again, make sure there are no leaves/foliage in the water!

Re-cutting the stems every few days will also allow the flowers to keep "drinking" properly.

There are a few types of flowers that make the water murky almost immediately. If any of these are in your arrangement, you’ll likely need to change the water every single day and possibly even add a drop of bleach to the water. Just a drop! Not a teaspoon. Ask me how I know this ;)

Flowers that muck up water:

-Zinnias, Black-Eyed Susans, Yarrow, Stock, Ornamental Kale/Cabbage, Oregano

9. Choose Water Wisely

Depending on where you live and what type of water you have, it might be helpful to use filtered water for your bouquets.

If you have softened well water, the salts in the water could cause your flowers to expire faster. Try filtered water instead. I don’t have scientific evidence to prove this, but I’ve noticed my bouquets in softened water don’t last as long.

10. Use Flower Food 

Search the internet and you will find about a bazillion different “Awesome hacks!” for keeping your flowers fresh. Some work, some don't. Take everything with a grain of salt or do like I do… just skip this part ;)

Yup, I hardly ever use flower food. But if you want to, I recommend a commercial flower food like FloraLife, because it contains:

Sugar (to feed the flowers)

Acid (to maintain correct pH)

Bleach (to kill bacteria)

Soda (like Sprite) comes in a close second to flower food. The sugar and acid in the soda mimic the effects of flower food. Choose a clear soda to keep the water looking clean. Add a few tablespoons each time you change the water.

There you have it! With these tips and techniques, you’ll be equipped to get the best and longest vase life out of your flowers!

Now get out there and go cut some blooms!

-Lori

When (and How) to Harvest and Store Your Peony Blooms

There is NOTHING better than vases of gorgeous, lush Peonies covering every flat surface of your home. Peony season is short and sweet… and if you’re like me, you want to make it last as long as possible!

Today, I’m going to share my best tips for harvesting (and storing) your Peony blooms to squeeze every last bit of joy out of Peony season. 

With 450 Peony plants on our farm, Peony season is a delight!

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The #1 mistake I see new growers make

The best time to harvest a Peony is before it opens. I know that sounds odd, but trust me on this one. 

I often see people wait until the bloom is fully open, with all the petals extended back, before they harvest the blooms.

Friend, I understand. You want to see what it looks like before you harvest it. But if you want your Peonies to last as long as possible in the vase, it’s best to harvest them right before the petals unfurl. 

When you harvest at the correct stage and let the bloom open in a vase, you can expect 7-10 days of vase life. 

If you wait until the bloom is already open in the garden? You're looking at 3-5 days. That's a significant difference!

There are two more reasons to harvest early:

🐜Ants. Peony buds produce a sweet, sticky sap that ants absolutely love. They're not harming your plant, but if you harvest wide-open blooms, you’re probably going to find a bunch of ants crawling around in them. Harvesting before the bloom opens makes it much easier to get rid of them. Simply hold the stem upside down and smack it against your leg. The ants will fall off (and the bloom won’t be damaged, because it’s not open yet). Or you can swish the stem in a bucket of water to rinse the ants off. 

❄️Storage. Ok, this part feels like pure magic. Peony buds harvested before they are open can be stored dry (no water needed) in a cool space, like a cooler or your fridge veggie crisper drawer for up to four weeks (or even longer!). That means if you have a wedding, a party, or any special event on the calendar, you can harvest your Peonies when they are ready… and hold them until you need them. This is an absolute GAMECHANGER. 

“Dr. Alexander Fleming” Peony at the correct stage of harvest.

“Dr. Alexander Fleming” Peony at open stage. When harvested at this stage, the vase life will be much shorter… and the bloom will likely be full of ants. 🙃🐜

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The Soft Marshmallow Test

So, how do you know when a bud is ready to cut? You squeeze it.

I'm serious. Give the bud a gentle squeeze. What you're looking for is what I call the Soft Marshmallow Stage: the bud is still fully closed, but it yields slightly under your fingers… soft and a little squishy.

Watch the video below to see what I’m talking about!

If the bud feels hard and firm (like a marble), it's not ready yet. Come back later and check again.

Peonies, like fruit, ripen faster in hot weather. On warm days (80°F and above), we walk through the Peony field 2-3x per day, squeezing buds to check for ripeness. A few hours can make a huge difference. Buds that were not ready at breakfast time might be ripe by lunch time! 

Pro tip: As a general rule, red/magenta Peonies take longer to reach the Soft Marshmallow Stage than pink or white varieties. If your reds still feel firm while your pinks are ready to go, that's normal. Just keep checking them every day.

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How to Store Your Peonies to Use Later

Once you've cut your stems at the right stage, here's how to keep them fresh until you need them. 

✅For short-term storage (1-2 weeks), wrap the stems loosely in newprint or paper, then place them in a plastic bag, but don’t seal it.  Keep them dry (no water) in the refrigerator at 40-42°F.

✅For longer storage (up to 4 weeks), follow the instructions above, but aim for a colder temp of 32-36°F if you have that option. The colder you can keep them, the longer they will last. 

When you're ready to use them, pull the stems out of the fridge about 8 hours ahead of time.

They might look a little sad, but don’t panic. Give each stem a fresh cut at the bottom of the stem (so it can start drinking water) and place them in a vase of clean water to rehydrate.

It’s so magical watching them open up and bloom! You truly have to see it to believe it.

Vase life for Peonies will vary, depending on when they were cut and how they were stored.

• Fresh from the field, at the correct stage of harvest: 7-10 days

• Stored for 1-2 weeks in a fridge: 3-6 days

• Stored for 4+ weeks in a cooler at 32-36°: 1-4 days

As you can see, the longer they are stored, the shorter the vase life. But that’s ok… because most of the stored Peonies are intended for weddings or events, where they only need to look good for one day. We call these “Event Flowers”.

“Sarah Bernhardt” Peonies, ready to be wrapped in paper and stored in the cooler for a few weeks!

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Harvesting and storing Peonies is one of those skills that feels a little mysterious at first, but once you see how it works for yourself, you’ll be a believer! 

Trust the process, trust the squeeze test, and you'll be rewarded with armloads of blooms that exceed your expectations 

Now go enjoy those Peonies! You've earned it!